Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and travelers alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, Unesco recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select roster of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it enters a international community of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "stands as proof of its deep-rooted food heritage and lively gastronomic culture," as noted by a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this venerable city arrives as no surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has perennially shaped its essence: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a constant dialogue from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on many street corners, there are small establishments and carts – hidden gems that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The cook hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their younger generation do not want to take up the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will inspire more people globally to explore these tales and experience the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
